Sunday 30 November 2014

走進童話世界 - 意大利Alberobello (Alberobello, Puglia, Italia)





決定到東南意旅行,除左因為見到Matera的靚相外,另一個吸引我的便是那些蘑菇屋 - Trulli。第一次在網上見到,覺得這些屋仔很可愛,整個鎮也很可愛,所以最方便的便是Matera, Alberobello等地方放在同一個trip,一次過滿足晒自己的願望。

到Alberobello,交通也不是太多選擇。最方便的,還是從Bari出發,可乘由Ferrovie de Sud Est 營運的火車或巴士,一個半小時便到,費用也是一程4.9歐羅,一日來回也很好 (當然,想慢慢的感受小鎮文化及嘗試住進蘑菇屋,2-3天也是不錯!)

火車
一日大約有5-6班火車,集中在早上,同樣地由Bari Centrale出發,到Alberobello。Bari 車站也是在Bari Centrale stazione 旁,建議去到問問當地職員,不要誤會是Centrale stazione 的platform呢。

可能東南面的地方大多是小鎮,星期日及公眾假期也沒有火車到Alberbello的,所以我們也只可搭同公司營運的巴士。

巴士
一日大約有5-6班,全天也有,方便下午沒車到Alberobello的人,可下午/晚上才到Alberobello,價錢較火車便宜一點,只是4.1歐羅,車程也只是1小時45分鐘多一點。中途也停很多不同站 (可到營運公司網頁看看有什麼站呀),不過因為有一半人也是到Alberobello旅行,所以到站時司機也會提你下車呢!

至於上車地方,則與下車不同,所以記得預先上網看看上下車地點,再看看地圖! 特別是上車回程的地點,車站十分不顯眼,是在一間街角Cafe & Bar的對面,也很少人上車,所以我們初時也怕找錯了地方呢! 但可以到Cafe & Bar問問職員,他們也會很友善搭你的呢!

車票呢? 巴士的車票不可以在網上買,只可以到時間在店買。在意大利有一個很特別的習慣,就是可以到Cafe & Bar,或是報檔買車票~就連長途車票也是呢!

今次到Alberobello旅行,也是遇著復活節,商店沒開,只好試試到Cafe買票。在網上查了一下可買票的Cafe,盲摸摸的周圍找,由於怕找不到,我們一早便出門,也走了好一段路,才找到Cafe & Bar的街道 (要知道,有時間在意大利街道名稱確是很不好找!) 但兜了又兜,也找不到網站上寫明的Cafe名,唯有走入另外一間Cafe問問! 真好遇著一個超好人的Cafe老闆,他帶我出去Cafe外的報檔,還幫我和報檔老闆說呢! (始終我的意大利文還是一般般,而最重要的是,我說得出意大利文,但聽不明他們說什麼呢!)

但東南意的美麗之處就是,這裡大部份人也很好,特別可能較少亞洲人到這裡旅行,他們都好喜歡和你們談天,(我用有效的意大利文溝通,而他們大部份也不懂英文的!)

由於時間尚早,便在Cafe吃個早餐,再到車站等車。同樣地,這條街也有2-3個站,而每個站也是不顯眼的。我發現,在Puglia地區,車站牌是高高的掛起,沒有圖畫或LOGO,只有細細的車公司名,你也不能確定對不對的呢! 有時候要留意是車站牌還是給駕駛人士看的路牌呢!

下車後,最好問當地人怎樣到Trulli,因為下車的地方是在一般的街道,而且城鎮較細,只好問人怎樣走。

說回Alberobello,Alberobello以她的蘑菇屋聞名。這些蘑菇屋名叫Trulli,那圓錐形屋頂是由一塊一塊細小的石頭疊砌而成,當中更沒有用任何水泥興建! 聽說在中古世紀時,當時的農民漁民收入不高,為了逃稅而砌成蘑菇屋,到收稅時把屋頂推掉,裝成沒人住的,便可以不用交稅,然後數天過後再從新興建。

居民更會在屋頂上以白漆畫上不同得符號,有的說是宗教色彩,亦有人說是用來驅魔。而Alberobello亦於1996年正式納入世界文化遺產。

大約走15分鐘,見到遊人開始多,便知道差不多到了,當一路走仍是普通的白色小屋時,突然間,你會發現,對面馬路便是一整排的蘑菇屋! 好有 柳暗花明又一村的感覺! 一見到蘑菇屋,我真的十分興奮!因為實在太特別,太神奇,又好唔真實! 隨意走走,每一角落也是影相位!! 當然,一個地方漸漸開始為人熟悉時,遊客商店也自然多了 (幸好在很多外國遊客當中,Alberobello仍然不是很有名,所以整體仍不會有那種人山人海的感覺)。

Alberobello有3條蘑菇村,我認為只走一條也夠了,而且村落很細,走2-3個小時便可以走完了~! 當然,也可住進蘑菇屋酒店啦!

回程時若是乘火車的話,必經另一小鎮Martina Franca,也是一個值得一去的地方,可惜我們當日沒有火車,所以也沒機會和沒時間到那裡走走呢!




Besides Matera, the Trulli in Alberobello are the other things I want to see during my South-eastern Italy trip. The first time i saw the "trulli" photos on the internet, I just found it so lovely. The whole village is just like a wonderland in storybook. As Matera and Alberobello is not far away, it's good to visit these 2 places during my trip.

There is not much choice on transportation to Alberobello. Again, the most convenient one is taking train or bus from Bari, which are operated by Ferrovie de Sud Est. It takes around 1.5 hr and the cost is around 4.9 euro. It is good for a day trip from Bari. (of course, for those who like to explore the culture, you can choose to stay in the "Trulli" hotel for 2-3 days!)

Train
There are around 5-6 trains to and from Bari and Alberbello, setting off from Bari Centrale, but most of them run by the noon time. Again, the platform is not in the main area of the Bari Centrale stazione, and it is better to check with the station staff for the right platform

Maybe because most of the cities are small towns or less tourist known cities (just I guessed), most of the trains don't run on Sunday and Public holidays (same as trains to Matera), and thus, we have to take bus to there last time.

Bus
There are 5-6 buses whole day, so it is more convenient for those who want to go to Alberobello in the afternoon or at night. For bus, it is slightly cheaper, just costs 4.1 euro and takes you about 1hr 45 mins to get there. There are more stops before arriving Alberobello but the driver will let the tourists know once arriving Alberobello.

However, the location taking the bus back Bari is different from where you get off. So, you should check the location on the map or on internet in advance. We had some difficulties to locate the bus stop when we headed back to Bari, the stop is not obvious (and indeed most of the bus stop in south-east italy are not obvious...), it is located across the street with a Cafe & Bar at the corner. You may check with the staff at the bar anyway.

What about the fare? We can't buy the bus ticket online so you have to get to the shop. And in Italy, they will sell bus tickets in cafe & bar, or newspaper stands!

As it was Easter holiday when we went to Alberobello and most of the shops closed during holiday, we can only buy the tickets in the cafe. After checking the internet the addresses of the cafes, we just went and tried to find out where the shop was. It's not easy to find, even we went to the right street. At first, we couldn't locate the shop as shown in the website, and so, we just went to one of the cafe and asked the boss. Luckily we met a nice nice Italian and he led us to the newspaper stands just outside the cafe and brought the tickets. We have chatted for a while too. (But it's difficult to communicate with them with my "un po' italian")

What's the beauty of South-east Italy that attracts me? It's the people there. Maybe because not many Asian people travelling there, they are all very nice to us.

After buying the tickets from the newspaper stand, we had our breakfast at the same cafe and waited for the bus at the bus stop. There are indeed 2-3 bus stops on the same street and the bus stop sign is not obvious! They don't have any company logo or pics or bus graphics, but just some italian only. You have to check clearly if the bus stop is for your bus!

Once arriving Alberobello, I suggested to check with the locals there the direction to the trulli village. The place where you get off the bus is just a normal street and it's not easy to figure out where you are indeed.

Talking about Alberobello, it is famous for its "trulli" houses. A trullo is a small dwelling built from the limestone, with conical roof. It was said that in the middle ages, the peasant workers designed the trulli to avoid taxes and fool the authorities, pretending no one was living there as the trulli could be disapossessed easily. And a few days later, they can then reconstruct the house again rapidly. 

Some of the roofs have a symbol painted on it, such symbols may include religious symbols or with astrological meaning. In 1996, Alberobello became the UNSECO World Heritage.

After walking for 15 mins, you are almost there! It was so excited to find the "Sea" of trulli in front of me and they were just amazing! Everywhere just catch your attention and your camera, too! And of course, when a place becomes more popular, tourist shops are getting more but for Alberobello, luckily the situation is still acceptable as I really don't like crowded place.

There are 3 trulli villages in Alberobello and I just went to one of them, (to me, i think it's enough). And the village is quite small so it just takes you 2-3 hours to walk around. But of course, you can stay in the trulli hotel and experience the beauty of it overnight!

If you are taking train back to Bari, you can stop by another small town, Martina Franca, which is also worth to go. I would definitely visit it if I have time next time!



這個Cafe 老闆很好人的呀!教和幫我買車票,仲專登整熱三文治 (剛剛開店沒有暖的) 給我呢 (我不太喜歡吃凍的三文治)
He is the nice nice guy from the Cafe! He even heated up the sandwiches for me (I don't like eating cold sandwiches...) 


在進入真正蘑菇前,會經過一些普通的店 
Before arriving the Trulli village, you have to pass through this street 







就連教堂也是蘑菇屋頂呢! Even the church was built in the same "trulli" style!

部份蘑菇屋屋頂漆上符號,有些帶有宗教或驅魔意思
Some of the roofs have a symbol painted on it, such symbols may include religious symbols or with astrological meaning





















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