Saturday 29 November 2014

令人嘆為觀止的 Matera (Matera, Basilicata, Italia)






不知什麼時候,在網上看到有人分享Matera的照片,然後,一眼便愛上了。Matera是一個歷史悠久的城市,現在分為新城和舊城,而吸引我的,就是舊城Sassi區,亦即是因地形而成,古人依山洞而建成的一個又一個洞窟小屋。

於是,亦決定到南意旅行時必要到Matera走走。

Matera這個地方,就在高跟鞋的鞋跟處,交通其實有點不方便。一般可以由Napoli果邊坐巴士去,但我因為主要到Puglia地區,所以只可從Bari坐車過。其實從Bari到Matera,只有Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL)營運巴士或火車 (價錢一樣是4.9歐羅)

火車
從Bari Centrale 到Matera Centrale 車站,約一個半鐘多少少,每日都有約10多班火車來往,所以十分方便,但是火車只可去到Matera Centrale 車站,與Sassi 區約20分鐘路程,只要出火車站後,面向車站的停車場,左手邊出口是馬路,向前方走便會看到~!

但是有一點要注意,火車星期日和公眾假期是不行走的!所以大家一定要上網檢查一下時間表才出發!

可以先在網上訂票,但其實不會太多人,而且不是設指定座位的,所以建議大家不用先行訂票,可以Flexible 一點~

提提大家,Bari-Matera路線在火車站的另一邊月台,即是在哪? Bari Centrale 其實係大車站,主要用作城市與城市之間的長途火車,是trenitalia的火車多,而FAL 其實是Bari Centrale毗鄰在一起的車站,所以入到Centrale車站,最好問問人FAL月台在哪~或是從Centrale火車站外面找找一幢黃色的建築物就是FAL車站喇!

巴士
假日和公眾假期,就只可以選擇巴士喇! 時間也是1小時45分鐘,較火車耐15分鐘多一些,所以其實也不錯的! 而且巴士也舒服,不怕太舊

巴士站在Bari V. Turati Mater Dei 到Matera P.za Matteotti,其實從Bari出發,會停好幾個站,我自己在Bari Centrale火車站那條大馬路,平常會有不同長途巴士在這裡上落客,較易找到巴士站,Matera站也是在Matera Centrale旁,所以不難找。

由於巴士是設座位的,我建議大家可先行網上訂票,把確認信印出來上車便可。想Flexible多一點,也可以到店買,但我去時因為是復活節,很多時商店也關門了~所以也不知在哪裡呀!

到Matera主要都是為了Sassi區,走進舊區,其實也只是在城裡走走,可到教堂看看,教堂在山涯旁,在側面看過去,便會看到Matera地勢的特色 --- 石灰岩 ,因為地質鬆軟,造成很多大少不一的洞或裂縫,當地人便在這些地方建房子,成為洞窟小屋,最後被稱為 Sassi。

在matera古城望過對面山,在山頂上有3個大十字架,為什麼呢?原來以前有套戲《受難曲》在Matera取景,建了這3個十字架,所以很多人也會專程到對面山看看,而且,從對面上望回舊城,可以一覽整個舊城風貌呢。

不過怎樣過對面?問過酒店,可以叫的士載過去,因為好像沒有巴士過去的,而我們呢?由於慳家嘛,所以決定來個行山!!怎樣過?在舊城馬路邊,有2個位置有樓梯落到山坡下,到山腰後,其他兩山之間是隔著河的,然後怎麼辦?就看看大家大膽與否,就是想辦法自行找個較安全的位置過河喇! 過了河後,再找找山徑,(因為很多外國人也這樣做,所以是有條山路可走上山的)其他整體也不太危險的呀!

大約過到對面山,我想應該用2-3小時吧(加上中間影影相,休息等等)
回頭路怎算?也是從原路走回對面山吧!

或者也可問問Tourist office 有沒有其他交通吧!

到Matera遇上復活節,很多餐廳下午也只做復活餐,我們揀了一家在舊城區望向內城的餐廳,雖然價錢好像是30歐羅一個人,但真的吃得好飽好飽!吃完前菜後,來了另一碟前菜,再來了Pasta,以為夠了!原來還有肉 (因為意大利人的餐一般是Antipasti, First Course, Second Course 才是肉的!) 最後,甜品也有2款,吃了足足3小時,加上有紅酒和白酒,真的飽到我們晚上也吃不了什麼!

到Matera,建議住進由洞窟改建而成的酒店,因為這樣才能深深感受一下古時人民的洞窟生活。我更加大力推薦Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita ,詳情可看另一篇blog!



The first time I saw the photo of Matera from the internet, I knew that I have fallen in love with it. Matera is a historical town, with a newly developed part and the old town -- Sassi. Because of the limestone rocks, cave houses dug into the rocks and made this as the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage.

Therefore, I decided to go to Matera during my Easter trip to Italy.

Situated on the southern part of Italy, actually the transportation is not that convenient. Some people travel to Matera from Napoli by bus, as my trip was mainly based in Puglia area, the most convenient way to Matera will be taking train or autobus from Bari. The transport is operated by Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL). (Both cost 4.9 euro)

Train
The train takes about 1.5 hrs from Bari Centrale to Matera Centrale, and there are more than 10 trains to and from Bari. After arriving Matera Centrale, go out from the train station, you will find the car park connected with the station. Facing the carpark, on your left, there is the main road and from there, keep walking for 20 mins and you will arrive the Sassi district.

But remember that train doesn't run on Sundays or public holidays and therefore, you have to check the time table before travelling there!

And you can also buy the train tickets online but to my opinion, as there is always seats available so it's not necessary to buy it in advance!

And you have to bear in mind that the FAL train station actually is adjucent to Bari Centrale (not in the Centrale station as it is mainly for trains of trenitalia) So where is platform for FAL trains? If you go through the Centrale station, you better ask the staff there for the FAL platform instead! Or from the outside, you can find the yellow building next to Centrale station and that may be easier to reach the platform!

Autobus
During Sundays and public holidays, only autobus runs from Bari to Matera, and it also takes you around 1 hr 45 mins, just a little bit longer than train. So it is indeed not a bad choice!

The bus stop -- Bari V. Turati Mater Dei  to Matera P.za Matteotti; there are several stops in Bari and the one outside Bari Centrale station should be the easiest one. There is a main road just outside the station and you can find various bus stops taking up tourists there. Just ask and you will know! And the bus also takes you to Materal Centrale station (bus stop is next to the station)

As there is limited seat for each bus, it is better to buy tickets online in advance. Just print out the e-ticket and show to the driver when you onboard. You can also buy tickets at shop, but most of the shops close during Easter holiday when I travelled there last time, so I highly recommended to buy it online!~

Visiting the Sassi area of Matera, you can just walk around, visit the church, etc. The church was built on the edge of the hill and you can see the limestone structure from there. 

From the Sassi area, you will find 3 huge crosses on the opposite mountain. Why? Because it was the movie scene of "The Passion of the Christ"  and it is now becoming one of the tourist spot of Matera. And the view from the mountain is great too as you can also have a magnificent view of the Sassi area.

But how to get to the mountain? We checked with the hotel staff, they suggested us to call taxi to get there as it seems that no bus will go there. Of course, we will save the money from that, and decided to go hiking! There are 2 road getting down the hill and you will find a small river. Just find a safe path and cross the river, then you will find another path go up to the hill. It will take around 2-3 hrs (including some rest time, and taking photos). And how to go back? We chose to use the same road back......

Or maybe you can check with the Toursim office and see any other ways to get there then!

It was Easter holiay when we visited Matera and therefore, many restaurants just offered Easter meal. We chose a restaurant with a stunning view of part of the old sassi area, the meal costed around 30 euro per person but you will definitely get so full after having the lunch! We had soup and some salad, then a pasta when we were almost full, they gave you another dish -- meat! And then 2 more desserts, too! (Also red and white wine.....) 

We booked a hotel - Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita , which transformed the caves into hotel room. We highly recommended you to choose these kinds of hotels so as to truely experience the culture and lifestyle of people in the past! You can find out more and the photos of the hotel in another article in this blog.






  






這條小路走下去便是山腰

大家自行找個安全的位置過河吧! Just find a safe place to cross the river!













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